Back To Where It All Began

We’re currently nearing the end of our two-month return to Manta, Ecuador.

When we left the United States for Ecuador in 2023, we told everyone that the plan was to stay for a year. But we knew that in order to stay for one year, we would need to get a two-year residency visa- and that the option to renew beyond that would be rather easy and straightforward. So, in the back of our minds, we were prepared to love Ecuador and want to stay longer.

The fact is, we did (and do) love Ecuador.

But is love enough?

That first time here, when we hit that one-year mark, we really had to ask ourselves that question. There was a lot we loved here.... and a lot of challenges. Six months later that discussion had evolved into the “Gallivant Plan”. 

Our return has served two primary purposes: first, to reconnect with great friends that we'd made when we lived here; second, to revisit the things we loved and the things that challenged us. Did our Gallivant change those perceptions?

Manta, at its heart, is a salt-of-the-sea fishing village. But in the last 20 years it has been a boomtown of tourism, witnessing an influx of wealth from the mountains (Quito and Cuenca), from overseas, and in recent years, from drug cartels. This mixture of influence and history has created a cacophony of conflicting priorities. Sometimes this results in unexpected beauty, and sometimes it results in a city that seems at odds with itself.

The part of town we lived in (and are again staying in) is definitely ‘fancy’. It’s the two-mile strip along the ocean with higher-end restaurants, the big, modern mall, and homes/condos bordering the beachfront, with ocean views, guards, and “North American Standards” (a common marketing term). Other parts of the city have homes that are lovely, traditional Ecuadorian homes, while still others have homes and apartments without sheetrock or plaster, and some without indoor plumbing.

Some of the local food is amazing! A personal favorite is Viche de Cameron- a soup full of root vegetables and shrimp in a peanut-based thick broth. It’s rich, creamy, and incredibly hearty.  One of our favorite restaurants, Las Velas, is staffed by some of our favorite people. On the other hand, grocery and market findings are quite hit and miss. Because the bulk of farming here happens in the mountains, the coast often ends up with the second tier in quality, making grocery shopping inconsistent. And then some local food is just strange. I’m not sure I’ll every be brave enough to buy quail eggs on the beach… that have been sitting in the sun… all day.

Culturally, the relationship to noise (and loud music) is very different. And for someone who prefers quiet- sometimes quite a challenge. This was one factor we were curious about when we left… was it really louder here than in, say, Mexico? The quick answer is- yes. Yes, it is. By a sizable amount.

The proximity to the ocean, to wildlife, to spectacular sunsets- these are hard to beat. Walking the beach and seeing the birds... visiting 'our' crabs... constantly being amazed by the colors of the sunsets.... Perfection. The level of garbage on the sides of the roads- not litter, but piles of trash- is sad on multiple levels.

Manta is where we learned that no matter how good our Spanish became, no matter how respectful we were, in Latin America, we will never quite be a 'local'. There’s nothing wrong with that. But it did take a while to realize how egotistical “wanting to hang out with the locals” can be. I mean, they have full lives! Why would they want to hang out with us?  

On the other hand, we were pleasantly surprised by the welcoming kindness of the 'extranjero' (gringo) population. This group of strangers who 'otherwise would not mix', has built a community of mutual support and friendship that welcomed us when we arrived in 2023. We started some wonderful, cherished friendships here, and were delighted to return and see folks in person again.

So.... we DO love Ecuador. Did our perceptions change? Not really. It's still the complex, fun, weird, sometimes exciting, sometimes frustrating place. We are glad we came to visit, and glad we spent two months here- and we may come back again.

And we wouldn't trade the gallivant we are on for anything.

Both things can be true at the same time.